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Unripe cherry plums packed in salt as a pickle

“So what did you do over the summer?” someone says — which is a perfectly reasonable question at this time of year. “Oh,” say I, palms starting to sweat, “just, you know, very cool — just very cool and normal stuff.” Is it possible or even appropriate to explain that I spent multiple weekends picking and processing cherry plums (not quite a treeful) into jam (two kinds), liqueur (three kinds), and pickle? And almost as much time compulsively checking on the readiness or otherwise of the fruits which were about to come into season. I wonder if it might be better to confess that I saw — and actually enjoyed — Guy Ritchie’s universally panned King Arthur film twice (a film that refers to the Knights of the Round Table as “the lads”).

Looking out for fruit trees is a great pastime for the summer (again, I must stress, only if you are very cool) and the cherry plum is one of the easiest to spot, once you realise what you are looking at. They are just small plums, and helpfully bright yellow or shiny red. I’ve spotted the trees laden with fruit on roadsides, hanging over urban streets in SE11, and on odd bits of land by railway stations. One tip is to notice the ground: ripe fruits fall and make a mess. Millennials, according to various bits of research, value experiences over possessions, so perhaps I’m acting my age when I persuade my siblings to form a human pyramid to get a sample branch down. (In the throes of the glut it’s hard to be sensible.)

The fruit of the particular tree I picked from — which is wild, or at least feral — is not even nice, unless it’s cooked, or preserved in some way. At best the raw plums, like bright yellow juice-sacs, are just watery and tasteless; at worst they are actively unpleasant, woolly, bafflingly pasty. The tree is also wildly overproductive, despite the dire rumours I had heard that there had been a Hard Late Frost which would damage the fruit.

The first batch of 4kg of plums (for 10 jars) went into a fairly classic jam: stoned, very gently simmered for a couple of hours, then boiled up with about 2.5kg sugar. (Get the fruit boiling before you add the sugar.) With cherry plums this makes a beautiful golden-orangey-yellow, firmly-set jam, and it’s a really safe jam to try making because the fruit has so much natural pectin that it’s guaranteed to set. To my mind it’s much livelier and zingier than regular plum jam. “Almost as good as marmalade,” according to my sister, spreading it on her bacon. The second batch (again 4kg) got better reviews from some quarters. This was a roasted plum jam: the stoned plums were put in a deep baking dish, some sugar scattered over, and roasted in a very hot oven until the top of the plum mass was dark and caramelised. If you are very tough you try to jar it immediately; if you are not you boil it up in a saucepan with the rest of the sugar as for any other jam to make sure it sets. This method ruins the lovely colour but gives a deeper, more complex flavour to the jam.

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